Orkney Springs - a semi-secret spot
May 27th, 2008
In the middle of Mount Jackson, when you are driving on US 11, you will see a sign for the westward-winding Route 263.
Following this road to its end promises to be a real treat for at its conclusion is the village gem, Orkney Springs. One word of warning is that the road coming over the mountain is a little twisty and turny. It always gives my mom a headache, but it doesn’t bother me.
The first time I drove to Orkney Springs it was to experience the wonders of the Shenandoah Valley Music Festival. I plan to write more about that terrific event at a later date.
I can recall driving into the Orkney community dotted with white houses, a small country store, post office and rescue squad building. A few yards up the road I came upon the awe-inspiring beauty of the Orkney Springs Hotel.
Now known as The Virginia House, the four-story white clapboard structure features windows that appear to be floor to ceiling with long, green shutters. It was built as a spa in 1873 and was restored in 1987 when it was bought by the Episcopal diocese which owns Shrine Mont, a religious retreat truly at the end of Route 263 - just above the hotel.
In its early days as a spa, many people from the city (Washington, D.C.) traveled by train to Mount Jackson and made the journey to Orkney to “take the waters” at what was billed as a healing “cold water” spring that were reported to have curative powers.
I was told at one time that Robert E. Lee’s father, “Lighthorse” Harry Lee - a Revolutionary War hero -was an early investor in the spa. But I think the truth might be that he owned the property before the resort was built.
At the time of its construction, the hotel featured the largest ballroom without supporting pillars - 50×100 feet with ceilings that are 18 feet high. Standing in the doorway it is easy to imagine belles and beaus dancing in turn of the century clothes. There are rumors that Confederate soldiers rested there before moving further up the Valley - certainly plausible, but not documented.
There is something so majestic and magical about the 96,000 square-foot stately structure combined with the peace and tranquility of the little village of Orkney Springs. You really do feel like you have stumbled upon a hidden treasure when you first spy it.
In the late 1980s, when the building was being renovated, they tented the entire structure to kill the termites that were plaguing the wooden hotel. Of course, that was a pretty cool story for a local newspaper, so the photographer and I went out to watch the process of covering the entire hotel with a giant blue canvas.
More magical experiences were nights when I laid on a blanket and watches the stars while listening to an orchestra play.
If you are looking for a unique spot to visit in Shenandoah County - Orkney Springs should be on your list.